Unfortunately, such a wedding ring tends to twist on the finger, even though it is designed to match the engagement ring – to the great irritation of the wearer. Solution: attach the two rings together to form a whole. This wedding set consists of a solitaire – ”Hiding Heart” – and a wedding ring – ”Hooked on You”. The latter is designed in a 3-dimensional curve so that it fits over and around the engagement ring’s setting, thereby keeping the wedding ring in place.
Clamping versus a closed clamping
To understand what lies behind the design, we need to talk about a darling: that thing with the knurled grips and the closed handles – and why one is chosen over the other.
”Look how much he loves me!” is what the (size of) diamond in the engagement ring traditionally communicates and often this diamond is held in place with ”claws”: relatively thin, small pieces of metal that are sharp and therefore scratch when you come into contact with them. Because they are so small (to appear as invisible as possible), they wear down over time, which means that they more readily snag on threads in clothing and in the worst case scenario they risk tearing off the precious gemstone. Caught in such a snag, the diamond is relatively vulnerable to the impact between the claws and in the worst case scenario you risk breaking a piece of the edge (also known as the bezel). BUT the snag has the indisputable advantage of allowing the maximum amount of light to pass through the gemstone so that it appears as bright and shiny as possible.
The alternative is a closed setting that covers the bezel all the way around the gemstone. This is a much safer choice because it protects the fragile edge from impact while making the ring much more comfortable to wear. As an added bonus, the diamond looks larger than it actually is – an optical illusion. BUT a closed setting does not allow light to pass through from the sides. This is usually not a problem with white diamonds because a diamond with a reasonable cut will reflect the light in the most beautiful way, while a colored gemstone will appear darker than it actually is. In other words:
Clotting
• Airy frame that allows light to pass through from the side
• Does not protect the diamond's delicate bezel
• Uncomfortable in close contact – scratches and can ruin clothes
• Slides down over time and can cause the diamond to slip off
Closed mounting
• Does not allow light to pass from the side
• Protects the gemstone's bezel from impact
• Very comfortable fit in everyday use
• Does not wear down as quickly as clumping
• Makes the diamond appear larger than it is
Hiding Heart Solitaire – The best of two worlds
When I was designing the setting for my Much Solitaire, I wanted to keep the top of the closed setting with all the benefits that come with it, but at the same time also allow the light to pass through the gemstone from the sides. I combined the two principles by cutting off parts of the setting’s sides and thus transforming it into a kind of curved setting. Since the ring is intended to be an engagement ring, it was the obvious choice (pun intended) to cut out two hearts. Because these hearts are discreetly placed on the sides of the setting and are therefore only seen from this slightly “secret” angle, it also takes away some of the slightly too sweet association that many have with hearts on jewelry.
The ring as a whole is shaped as a harmonious whole, where each part effortlessly flows into the next, thereby creating curves and air while the base appears stable and solid. The bottom of the ring, unlike most solitaires on the market, is somewhat wider than the airy top, which makes the design balanced to look at when it is not on the finger and at the same time increases comfort when wearing it.
The wedding ring Hooked on You – an association of design and function
The simple solution is often the most elegant one, and this wedding ring is no exception. Because Hooked on You is designed to be paired with the Hiding Heart solitaire ring, its somewhat oval shape does not make much sense on its own. But when it lives up to its name and is hung over the solitaire setting, its precisely curved shape will effortlessly hold it in place, while also providing extra focus on the primary gemstone in the ensemble.
I designed Hooked on You in two versions: a slim, rounded version that reflects the soft lines of solitaire and a slightly wider version that is designed to hold small diamonds. The couple can choose to start with this wider version completely without or with just a few gemstones, and then add more as life presents reasons to celebrate. This wide Hooked on You can hold up to 17 diamonds.
These diamonds are cut with extra-powerful cutters that leave only 1 millimeter of the individual stone unprotected, and therefore the theoretical risk of them being damaged is fortunately minimal. Should the unfortunate event still occur, it will be absolutely affordable to replace a damaged gemstone. In this way, the small diamonds in Hooked on You flow effortlessly around the solitaire’s main stone without the filigree around each individual gemstone taking the focus away from them.
This is how the design was created
It has taken almost 2 years to develop the concept and this wedding set has gone through many development phases, but ”beauty, comfort and durability” were always the main points along the way. On the first sketches, you can see the basic idea of a hidden heart on the side of the case, but the overall shape is still clumsy and visually clearly divided into the case and the ring band respectively.
Many later sketches made it possible to see the design drawn more precisely in 3D.
After further adjustments, we were able to test the design by having it printed, and at this stage it also required several versions before I felt it was good enough to be sent for casting.
After that, there was still a lot of work left on the goldsmith’s bench, where the ring was to be ”restored,” as they say, before it would appear shiny and beautiful and ready to receive its diamond.
The 3D technique was also crucial in making Hooked on You fit as well as possible with the Hiding Heart ring. Only when I was completely satisfied with the fit did the ring get cast and we could start experimenting with different casting techniques to attach the small diamonds.
Numbered – there is only one of each!
Each Hiding Heart is carefully tailored to its intended user and we create them in 18k yellow gold and 14k white gold. Diamonds are as unique as we humans are and must be found in Antwerp before we can engrave them into the finished ring. Of course, we are also open to special orders, such as this version of rose gold with a 2 carat diamond! Each ring is stamped with its own number and we keep meticulous records of who created which ring. Therefore, the new owner of the ring will also receive a certificate where exactly this number is recorded.
How much does it cost?
Hiding Heart is available as standard with stones in sizes 4, 5 and 6 mm – that is approximately 0.25ct, 0.5ct, 0.9ct and 1ct. We also make the ring with stones in other sizes as a special order. The size and quality of the diamond are crucial for the price of the ring, which can vary quite significantly – from 10,900 to 121,000 kr.
Find the prices of Hiding Heart here
Gold medallist
The Two Forever design is not only one we are happy with – it also thrilled an unanimous jury, which awarded the rings a gold medal at the A’Design Award 2018!
This set consisting of an engagement ring and a wedding ring – collectively known as the bridal set – is designed to be beautiful, comfortable, and romantic while also being practical enough to be worn in everyday life – and they do it all in the most elegant way!
If you feel inspired to create your own version, book a design meeting:
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